First One Day Ascent - Scorched Earth

‘Alright, heads up, I’m getting on this hook!’

Ammon, stepped over onto the talon hook that was barely perched on a fingernail of rock.  He started laughing.  I remember glancing at Sky.

“I can’t believe its holding!” Ammon shouted.

I looked back down at the belay, clipping and organizing things, although I can’t remember what exactly I was doing.  Maybe trying to get Sky onto the belay?  Then I heard it, ping!  The unmistakable sound of a hook popping off its perch.  Out of the corner of my eye I saw Ammon go flying past the belay.  I looked down over my right arm to watch him fall another thirty feet or more before slamming to the end of the rope.

When we asked Ammon if he was Ok he told he had a rope burn on his arm.  “How bad?” we asked him.  “It’s not to the bone!” he yelled back.

After the fall, I admit, some hesitation and negativity crept in.  The mediocre belay, the bolt hanger that Ammon’s fall bent, the insanely steep wall, they all started creeping into my mind.  Ammon remained psyched, but I think a little 50 footer is not likely to turn Ammon away.  Plus, he had a point, isn’t that all the more reason to push on? 

I'll let the pictures do the talking from here.

About to go

Luckily a passerby warned me that
the first pitch is pretty spicy.

Whats he doing?


Hey Ammon, how's that hook?!

That good, eh?


The Lovetron.

The Big Brother

Steeper than God

Yeah, it's steep.

Jugging. Yay.

The Poison Pill

Son of Poison Pill

Our only ledge.  It was a nice one.

Stayin' comfy

It's still #$@%ing steep!

Sky takes over heading up wondering when
he will get to the Leavitator

Oh we're still psyched!

22:28 - First One Day Ascent of Scorched Earth

We slept here for about an hour.  I kept sliding down
farther and farther, but the rock was warm and felt so nice

We had a little mishap on the Leavitator.  Everything
was ok, but it was a little bit of a scary moment.

The De-Rack